Warungboto – The Underrated Temple in Jogja

Previously

‘They have bad intention here.’ Aldi suddenly says when we go down the stairs.

‘What do you mean?’

‘Didn’t you see their faces? They came here and went straight to one quiet spot and did nothing?’

‘Oh yeah, you’re right. I just realized it. Why didn’t they just go to a hotel?’

***

***

Taman Sari

Day 4 in Jogja. Means the last day. I kinda don’t want to leave this city. There are just so many magical things here. But our money is running out so we got to go.

Before our train at 7 pm, we plan to go to some historical sites. The first target is Taman Sari. It’s one of the most famous sites in Jogja. Today will be the first time I visit the place.

We arrive just in time. It’s just opened and there are several people sitting for the turn. To minimize the crowd, visitor is limited to 10 people only for 30 minutes. So we have to make it fast. We also have to pay Rp20.000 for the guide. Well, it wasn’t like this before pandemic but since the duration is only half an hour, so the guide functions to direct visitors and explains the history of Taman Sari. I think it’s pretty cheap. To be honest I like history but not that diligent in reading history books. I prefer to be told by someone who knows like the guide in Taman Sari who is now leading us into The Water Castle.

As we walk through the main gate, the guide explains about the philosophy and the story behind the architecture. There are some small trees at some spots that will produce a fruit. I can’t remember the name of the fruit. It’s so uncommon. I’ll tell you once I remember the name of it.

The thing that I don’t like from this pandemic is that everything is limited. Literally everything! I am not satisfied at all with the photographs that I get here. Besides the time limit, other tourists are staring. How am I supposed to set the pose freely? I’m sure they don’t care but the tense just makes me uncomfortable. So I and Aldi walk at the very last line just so we can get the best photos.

Anyway, I like the ambience in here. The bath area particularly. I imagine myself being one of the concubines who’s about to serve the King. Taking a bath with the others waiting for the King to pick one of us up.

There are several parts of the place. As I don’t remember the name for the difficulty, here I try to describe one by one thanks to Google.

Umbul Pasiraman, known as Umbul Binangun or Umbul Winangun, is a bathing complex for the royal family. The bathing complex is an enclosed space surrounded by tall structures that consists of three pools. The surrounding was decorated with mushroom-shaped springs and large flower pots.

There are two buildings here. The northernmost building was used for the daughters and concubines of the sultan as the resting place and changing room. On the south side of it is Umbul Muncar.

The pool is divided into two by a central pathway, Blumbang Kuras, that runs east-west. The next building on the south is a building with a tower in its center. The right wing of the building was used as the sultan’s changing room, the east wing was used as his resting place. The central tower was used by the sultan to observe his daughters and concubines bathing in the pool.

On the south of this building is the third pool that was used only by the sultan and his concubines. During its era, only females and the sultan were allowed to enter this bathing complex.

Well, thanks to Wikipedia for the explanation. You might want to check the website for more information. The thing is that it’s very interesting for me how well everything was organised in that era. I think I wouldn’t be able to follow all of the rules as an ancient Javanese.

The guide keeps explaining from a to z about the building. We follow him walking around. Now we’re at the back of The Water Castle. The sun is already up there and the weather is getting hotter. We go out of the back gate and appear in the residential area.

There’s a small stall that sells ice squeezed orange that makes my throat becomes so thirsty. The guide may see my expression because he tells us to stop for a while to let us rest. I use the time wisely to enjoy the ice for only Rp5.000.

After 10 minutes, we continue walking. The journey ends by the time we reach the side gate. I just wish there’s no pandemic just so I could visit some areas that are closed like Sumur Gumuling, the underground mosque at Taman Sari water palace.

Cilok Kuah

From here we intend to visit another place. But we stop by to enjoy some cilok kuah. Looks so delicious from afar. Well it’s truly delicious at the first bite. We eat and have a cigarette for a while. After that Aldi pays the 2 bowls of cilok kuah that we just ate. And I’m surprised when the guy tells me it’s only Rp20.000. So cheap!

Cilok Kuah

Alright, enough for the bakso cilok kuah. We still have one more destination to go. We head to Warungboto. It’s a cultural site that was used by the Sultan to bathe. I actually still have some lists to visit. But our time is really running out, so we have to use it wisely.

Warungboto

We reach Warungboto after 10 minutes riding the motorcycle. It’s pretty surprising to see that this place is so quiet. Definitely different from Taman Sari. There’s no sign of a visitor. There’s not even a locket to pay for the entry ticket.

When we park the motorcycle in the front of the site, an old man approaches asking if we want to go inside Warungboto. I say yes and he gives us a ticket. I see… So this is the ticket man.

After paying for Rp3.000 the man lets us enter the site. The area is not as big as Taman Sari. Based on an article I found on Google, the land is 1 hectare wide with 3.344 square meters building.

Warungboto was built by Sultan Hamengkubuwono II when he was still a Crown Prince of 1765 – 1792 period. This was explained in The Archive of Yogyakarta that was written in 1980 by an English man, Peter Carey.

Well, this time I feel like it’s mine. Because nobody’s here. Just me and Aldi. But after a while, there are some men and a couple arrive. Still, this place is too big for us all.

Those men leave the site not long after they arrived. I guess I and Aldi are alone again since I don’t see the couple. But then, we spot them at the stairs in a blind spot.

They seem like they’re in a fight. They don’t talk to each other like common couple do. The girl sits on the stair, and the man is at some level above her, standing anxiously.

I wait for the girl to move, because I need the spot to take a photo. But the girl is busy staring at her cellphone. I get a bit annoyed. She doesn’t see the sign that I give her. I only need a minute at that spot. Luckily the man is sensitive enough. He tells the girl to move.

So up they go. Thanks dude! After getting what I want, I and Aldi walk toward the parking area.

‘They have bad intention here.’ Aldi suddenly says when we go down the stairs.

‘What do you mean?’

‘Didn’t you see their faces? They came here and went straight to one quiet spot and did nothing?’

‘Oh yeah, you’re right. I just realized it. Why didn’t they just go to a hotel?’

‘I don’t know. They probably don’t have money. And they might think that there wouldn’t be any body here.’

‘But it turned out there are us here! Hmmm… Makes sense.’

***

Jogja Souvenirs

It’s so hard to find a perfect fit! Yes, I’m looking for a shirt in a souvenir shop. When visiting a city, it won’t be complete without having an authentic shirt. I actually have visited Jogja a couple of times and the first visit with my family led me to buying a Jogja shirt. But it was a long time ago. After that trip I didn’t have time to go buying souvenirs.

We spend more than an hour in the shop! I actually don’t really like spending too much time on shopping. But Aldi is always so confused when choosing something. So I have to be patient.

After shirts, we buy some Bakpia. It is a popular Indonesian and Philippine bean-filled moon cake-like pastry. And everyone knows that the one form Jogja is unbearable.

There are a lot of brands and each one of them has a specialty. But my favorite is Bakpiaku especially the cheese flavor. Oh my God! The taste is really heaven! If you don’t trust me, just try.

And there is this bakpia that is famous recently – Bakpia Kukus. It’s a steamed bakpia. The chocolate one is the best! But I think it’s more like a sponge cake with a lighter texture.

I personally like the ordinary Bakpia more the the steamed one. The ordinary one is also cheaper. It’s only Rp60.000 per box consists of 20 pieces. The steamed one is Rp50.000 per box with only 10 pieces in it.

So after buying everything for family, we head back to the hotel to take our stuff. We left them in the receptionist this morning.

***

In front of the station we do the transaction. I return the motorcycle and give my friend Rp100.000 for letting me use his bike for 2 days. He actually doesn’t require me to pay. But as a matter of manner, I give him some for his kindness.

***

The 7 pm train doesn’t only takes us back to Jakarta… but takes me back to reality…

— The End —

Jogja Trip Part 1

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